Kelly Hallam

Many permanent makeup artists are stumped when it comes to warm modifiers, and for good reason. There have been many changes in our industry, in both techniques and pigments, that have affected their use. We’d like to share a bit of history so that you understand how these changes in our industry have affected the use of warm modifiers at Li Pigments, and why advice regarding their use seems to be all over the map.

For over 20 years, Li Pigments have been used by artists worldwide with great success. About 3 or 4 years ago, there were a few instances in which pigment aged too warm, with orange or pink tones. This happened to a small percentage of artists, but social media exaggerated the number and rumours grew that Li healed orange or pink. Li was very concerned, and as they always do if issue arises, they investigated. It was quickly determined there were two reasons this was happening:

  1. Microblading

The popularity of microblading grew exponentially, seemingly overnight. New artists popped up everywhere and so did trainers, many of them microblading just a few months themselves. Lack of skill for this advanced procedure resulted in blown out, gray hairstrokes. Trainers became so afraid of gray they began teaching students to add warm modifiers to all colours, on all clients. New and unskilled artists, also with gray results, incorrectly faulted the pigment and began to add larger amounts of modifier.

  1. Technique

Almost simultaneously, as great microblading results were actually difficult to achieve, the industry began to shift to shading. “New” techniques emerged and shallow, single-needle, work became popular. This new trend added to "warm" aging because Li had been very successfully formulated for the  traditional, larger needle group, shading techniques of the previous two decades. It was not concentrated enough for this new technique.


Over a year ago Li Pigments addressed these industry changes by significantly increasing the concentration of their Aqua line and since has been successfully used by microbladers, light-handed and single-needle shaders. Traditional shaders now dilute the pigment to achieve their predictable results.

Li Pigments have always been an industry favourite and continue to be an industry favourite because when colours and modifiers are used correctly, they stand the test of time and age naturally and softly.


Tips for Warm Modifier Use:

In general, a more concentrated pigment will heal less warm, more true-to-colour and require less modification. Almost all skin is cool and choosing the correct Li Pigment colour will heal and age well with the new, more concentrated formula. If you do modify, understand that:

  • Modifiers are very strong, very little is required
  • Adding a dot on a toothpick controls the amount better than a drop from the bottle
  • Light-handed work will rarely require a modifier when the correct colour is selected
  • Microblading aged/thin skin (though not the best technique for this skin type) will likely require a warm modifier
  • Microblading ruddy/red skin (though not the best technique for this skin type) will likely require a warm modifier
  • If unsure, add a warm colour instead of a modifier (Beautiful Blonde or Autumn Gold are safer options)

If you have any questions regarding the use of Li Pigments or modifiers please use the form below or email info@halcyoncosmetic and we will be very happy to help you.

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